We made it!
After 32 hours of travel (more for some) and being awake for, in some case, 47+ hours straight, our merry band of Burundi travelers wrapped up their adventures and arrived safely back in Austin, TX today.
Each of our lives have been irrevocably changed by the amazing people we've met and the experiences we've been through. The beautiful country, the deep poverty, the kind and generous Burundians, the comparatively primitive living conditions and pollution, the delicious food, the volunteers, teachers, and children we made friends with.
Arriving back in the United States for connecting flights was more than a little strange after living in Burundi for 2-4 weeks, and taking flights across Africa. The languages used, the clothing, the scents, the food, the skin colors, the way people drive, the way the countrysides look from the air, and on and on. Oh, and the hot Texas temps!
Still lingering in my mind from this morning (Saturday from my perspective, not having slept in nearly two days), the encouraging phrases "Courage!" (pronounced coo-rahj) and "Courage, Umizungo!", heard countless times on our run up and down the hill in Bujumbura to the university (Kiriri campus). Words of encouragement from the Burundi runners to the white folks in the fancy running duds. Then several runners persuaded me to race down the hill with them at breakneck speed - that was fun!
We've vowed to keep in touch with each other and with our new friends in Burundi. And not to forget what we've seen and experienced, or allow our lives to return to quite the same thoughts and routines as before.
Sunday, July 29, 2012
Thursday, July 26, 2012
The Burundi Way of Life
Our time in Burundi is growing short. Michael and I have been gone four weeks now, and, with the other folks that joined us from Austin, we depart on Saturday afternoon.
It'll be bitter-sweet. I'm ready to come home - to do more here I'd need a longer trip and some sort of mission or position. But I've gotten used to living here, met so many kind and generous people from Burundi and elsewhere, and learned a lot and, if I'm lucky, grown as a person a tad.
A couple of things you need in Burundi are patience and understanding. Events are frequently (usually!) out of your control and you have to just roll with it and not get frustrated. Hopefully mine has improved somewhat. Casual visits or inspection visits turn into celebrations. Day trips turn into multi-day affairs. Expectations are rarely fulfilled, at least not the way you planned. Equipment breaks down. Running water isn't. Meals don't happen when you're hungry. I could go on. The sooner you realize that you don't control your life or anybody else's, that the world is in God's hands and not yours, the easier your day becomes and the more you can help others.
I was in Gitega a few days last week with the Youth for Christ folks. There was another presentation for the brand-new Gitega International Academy, this one in the same town as the new school, and it was extremely well attended. I think we estimated 170-180 folks. Good stuff!
I was in a $5/night guest house, initially horrified at the conditions (no running water! oh no! :) ), but the Ugandan teacher candidates staying with me informed me that this was actually quite typical and very nice by African standards. Oops, another learning experience.
Joined the Austin folks late in the week, we went to Blue Bay near Rumonge Beach for a day of R&R. I'm not a beach bum myself but everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. Kendall even saw a hippo! She was so excited. Needless to say, not too much swimming in the Lake after that sighting.
Onward to Gitega (third time for me this month!), spending more time with the orphans at Homes of Hope and doing a little painting, too. Of course by this point everyone up there knew me well. I'm gonna miss those kiddos! And all the volunteers and folks who work there.
Back in Bujumbura today, and like I said, we fly out Saturday. It's a 32 hour journey from the time we fly out of Buj to arriving in Austin Sunday night. (!)
Wish I could take some bananas and mangos with me!
Saturday, July 21, 2012
When the Unusual Becomes Normal
It's interesting how after just a week or so back in Burundi, all sorts
of unusual, crazy, bizarre, or moving experiences seem (almost)
completely normal. How quickly one gets used to just about anything:
Standing in the middle of a residential street and suddenly being
surrounded by a ton of little goats as they're herded down the road by a
boy.
Endless streams of people on foot (barefoot or flip-flops) and aging
bicycles going down the road with astounding loads on their heads or
bicycles. Huge (you can't imagine how huge) clumps of bananas, trees,
bricks, produce, plywood, mattresses.
Being in the company of natives of Burundi and Uganda all day, walking
into a room with several westerners, and thinking suspiciously, "There's
a lot of umizungos in here!"
Walking/running down city streets, everyone pointing and staring at you
like you're a superstar or a white elephant, some shouting "Umizungo!",
and not even noticing.
Eating ugali, rice and fried/stewed/roasted bananas, and mangos every
day. Sleeping in a mosquito net. Taking cold "showers" with sink sprayer
hoses in previously-laughable bathrooms and glad to have it.
And then there's the things that I could never become used to:
Watching a room full of orphans sing and dance songs of joy,
forgiveness, and God's love for 30+ volunteers and teachers from Canada,
Uganda, and the U.S. In candelight, after the battery powered
(solar-charged) lights have gone out.
Being prayed over by a small child, speaking in Kirundu, with his hands
layed on me, for several minutes, while all the other orphans are
similarly praying over the other visitors.
Burundi kids in elbow and knee pads roller-blading down a narrow twisty
mountain road on the way from Gitega to Bujumbura.
Poor kids in dirty brown rags hauling buckets of water back home.
The smiles on little kids faces when you're running down the road and
wave at or greet them or respond to their "Umizungo" cries. You'd think
it was Christmas in July.
of unusual, crazy, bizarre, or moving experiences seem (almost)
completely normal. How quickly one gets used to just about anything:
Standing in the middle of a residential street and suddenly being
surrounded by a ton of little goats as they're herded down the road by a
boy.
Endless streams of people on foot (barefoot or flip-flops) and aging
bicycles going down the road with astounding loads on their heads or
bicycles. Huge (you can't imagine how huge) clumps of bananas, trees,
bricks, produce, plywood, mattresses.
Being in the company of natives of Burundi and Uganda all day, walking
into a room with several westerners, and thinking suspiciously, "There's
a lot of umizungos in here!"
Walking/running down city streets, everyone pointing and staring at you
like you're a superstar or a white elephant, some shouting "Umizungo!",
and not even noticing.
Eating ugali, rice and fried/stewed/roasted bananas, and mangos every
day. Sleeping in a mosquito net. Taking cold "showers" with sink sprayer
hoses in previously-laughable bathrooms and glad to have it.
And then there's the things that I could never become used to:
Watching a room full of orphans sing and dance songs of joy,
forgiveness, and God's love for 30+ volunteers and teachers from Canada,
Uganda, and the U.S. In candelight, after the battery powered
(solar-charged) lights have gone out.
Being prayed over by a small child, speaking in Kirundu, with his hands
layed on me, for several minutes, while all the other orphans are
similarly praying over the other visitors.
Burundi kids in elbow and knee pads roller-blading down a narrow twisty
mountain road on the way from Gitega to Bujumbura.
Poor kids in dirty brown rags hauling buckets of water back home.
The smiles on little kids faces when you're running down the road and
wave at or greet them or respond to their "Umizungo" cries. You'd think
it was Christmas in July.
Sunday, July 15, 2012
A Little Work, a Little Play...
Been mostly volunteering in the YFC offices this past week, good stuff but not many photos others would find interesting. Great to meet and work with so many dedicated folks, both from Burundi and many other countries.
Thursday night was a big send-off party for the U.K. volunteer team, led by Stephen Owen, all students at the University of St. Andrews in Scotland. It's been a real pleasure to get to know them, working with them both at new GIA school site as well as the Homes of Hope orphanage and at the main YFC site in Bujumbura. They've been here for at least three weeks, and drive back to Nairobi, Kenya on Monday (a 36 hour bus ride!), before eventually flying back to Scotland.
The night kicked off with a Burundi drummer team performance:
Friday night was big event for the brand-new Gitega International Academy (GIA), kinda of a parent info meeting. Hosted at the King's Conference Center auditorium (the hotel we stayed at on our trip a year ago), this is the event we'd been preparing for all week. We had over 50 parents in attendance by my count, and based on that and the type of questions the parents were asking, I'd certainly call it a success. We were all dressed up for the event (trying to get pics of the evening).
Yesterday (Saturday), we were privileged to be invited to an honest-to-goodness Burundi wedding. The Administrator of Songa's daughter married a local doctor in a very interesting (but long!) Catholic ceremony. Of course, Michael and I hadn't a clue what was being said, but the music was beautiful and it was quite an interesting experience.
Today, the rest of the Gazelles from Austin arrive. Should be a blast!
Photo albums:
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120712YFCDrummers
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120714Wedding
Thursday night was a big send-off party for the U.K. volunteer team, led by Stephen Owen, all students at the University of St. Andrews in Scotland. It's been a real pleasure to get to know them, working with them both at new GIA school site as well as the Homes of Hope orphanage and at the main YFC site in Bujumbura. They've been here for at least three weeks, and drive back to Nairobi, Kenya on Monday (a 36 hour bus ride!), before eventually flying back to Scotland.
The night kicked off with a Burundi drummer team performance:
Friday night was big event for the brand-new Gitega International Academy (GIA), kinda of a parent info meeting. Hosted at the King's Conference Center auditorium (the hotel we stayed at on our trip a year ago), this is the event we'd been preparing for all week. We had over 50 parents in attendance by my count, and based on that and the type of questions the parents were asking, I'd certainly call it a success. We were all dressed up for the event (trying to get pics of the evening).
Yesterday (Saturday), we were privileged to be invited to an honest-to-goodness Burundi wedding. The Administrator of Songa's daughter married a local doctor in a very interesting (but long!) Catholic ceremony. Of course, Michael and I hadn't a clue what was being said, but the music was beautiful and it was quite an interesting experience.
Today, the rest of the Gazelles from Austin arrive. Should be a blast!
Photo albums:
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120712YFCDrummers
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120714Wedding
Wednesday, July 11, 2012
We're Not in Texas Anymore
(Or - Things I Miss)
When I left Austin a few weeks ago, someone asked me, what was I gonna miss the most while away in Africa? Other than friends and family. I thought a bit, and nothing much came to mind. I'd been here before, and knew some of the everyday conveniences would be missing, but so what? Food? I'm into meat, vegetables, and fruit, and Burundi has about the tastiest, freshest fruits and vegetables you'll every find. And the bananas are to die for. So, what then?
Well, it's taken a few weeks, but I've worked up a short list for them:
Blueberries, Strawberries, Ketchup, Washing Machines, and clean air.
Blueberries are the best! But sadly, not a lot of berries grown around here, so like jams and nuts they're generally imported and a bit pricey. Ketchup's available but not commonplace.Some of the other YFC volunteers (Muzungos all!) were dipping their sweet potato fries in mayo today, but that's just plain weird. Nuts would totally be on the list, 'cept I packed pounds of nuts and almond butter in my bag.
Washing machines and dryers - have yet to see one here. Guess they're a luxury that's not needed given the low price of labor and the state of the electrical grid.
Clean air. Well it's sad, I hesitate to even mention it. But the thing is, without much of any trash service, and with much of the population living in such poverty anyway, what is the typical Burundi to do with their trash? They burn it. Wherever it is. So, the city is pretty hazy or even smoky, at least in the dry season. It's a bummer.
But really, the food here is totally awesome! Way better and fresher than at home. There's not a lot of seasoning or marinating, so the meat can be tough, but we had the best fish from the Lake the other night. Really outstanding, and fresh. The bananas are the best. I'm trying to get recipes from Freddy's wife, there's so many ways they prepare them. Plain, fried, stewed (greeen ones), sauteed. It can be hard to tell they're not potatoes.
Mangos - yum. So good, they're desert by themselves. Sweet potatoes, yams, huge avocados, sweet pineapples, passion fruit, ugali (there's three types, cassava, corn, and wheat, and only the corn is IMHO particularly good), ... The list goes on. One could gain weight here.
Here's the rest of the photos from last week:
Or just go to the main index:
Down-rezzed some videos from the celebrations last week and posted to youtube (unlisted links). Enjoy!
Monday, July 2, in Bururi:
Sunday, July 8, 2012
Unleash the Gazelles!
Wow, what an event-filled week in Burundi! Independence Day Sunday, celebrated on Monday with huge festivities in each province (being the 50th anniversary). Tuesday visited Momma Gilbert's house in Songa and toured the latest Gazelle Foundation water project. Checked out possible rental houses in Gitega and spent the next three nights at the Helena Hotel.
Wed-Fri, Terry, Vasil, and I along with several other volunteers from England and the U.S., painted primer onto interior classroom and dormitory walls at the new Gitega International Academy, which will open in September to 7th and 8th graders, and played with the kids at the Homes of Hope orphanage.
Back to Bujumbura. Bid Terry and Vasil farewell as they departed back for home on Saturday. Drove to Songa for a day-trip surveying the latest water project, and instead ended up at a commune-wide celebration of Independence Day. I understand the president wanted status from each commune on their public works projects (or something like that. Roads, education, water, etc.), so there were massive speeches and also dancing and singing and gymnastics. Even our own Michael Madison addressed the crowd and dignitaries on behalf of the Gazelle Foundation.
Dinner at Albert's country place with all the officials and dignitaries, and then back to Bujumbura for a late dinner and crepe. Whew!
Today Michael and I scouted out for groceries and such (apparently all the big grocery stores are closed on Sundays), and played catch-up on several fronts.
Never a dull moment in Burundi!
Full set of photos (still working on uploading, check back in a day or two for more):
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120701Bujumbura
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120702Bururi
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120703Songa
Bosco and Michael chat with dignitaries before the Independence Day festivities.
Burundi drummer squad struts their stuff.
I don't know where these students were from, but they were good!
We ran into Vira's mom, Shante, while walking around Bururi on Tuesday morning.
Momma Gilbert is clearly pleased to see Michael and Bosco!
This fellow loves the camera while filling up his water jugs from a new Gazelle Foundation tap stand.
Fellow volunteers at the Gitega International Academy roll primer onto classroom walls. Terry is pictured with Sharon and Helena (both on break from St. Andrews University in Scotland), and Nate from Indiana.
Claire (also from St. Andrews) is a happy camper!
Wed-Fri, Terry, Vasil, and I along with several other volunteers from England and the U.S., painted primer onto interior classroom and dormitory walls at the new Gitega International Academy, which will open in September to 7th and 8th graders, and played with the kids at the Homes of Hope orphanage.
Back to Bujumbura. Bid Terry and Vasil farewell as they departed back for home on Saturday. Drove to Songa for a day-trip surveying the latest water project, and instead ended up at a commune-wide celebration of Independence Day. I understand the president wanted status from each commune on their public works projects (or something like that. Roads, education, water, etc.), so there were massive speeches and also dancing and singing and gymnastics. Even our own Michael Madison addressed the crowd and dignitaries on behalf of the Gazelle Foundation.
Dinner at Albert's country place with all the officials and dignitaries, and then back to Bujumbura for a late dinner and crepe. Whew!
Today Michael and I scouted out for groceries and such (apparently all the big grocery stores are closed on Sundays), and played catch-up on several fronts.
Never a dull moment in Burundi!
Full set of photos (still working on uploading, check back in a day or two for more):
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120701Bujumbura
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120702Bururi
https://picasaweb.google.com/101251847536787387791/Burundi20120703Songa
Bosco and Michael chat with dignitaries before the Independence Day festivities.
Tuesday, July 3, 2012
Burundi Independence Day
July 1 is Burundi's (and Rwanda's) Independence Day, and this year marks the 50th anniversary of their independence from Belgium, so it's a pretty big deal. We had the privilege of participating in the celebration and festivities in the Bururi provence. July 1 being a Sunday, the big shindig took place on Monday instead.
Word was that the parade would start to assemble by 9AM. So we got in an early morning run (which was fun given the crazy hills and 6300 ft elevation), cold shower, and breakfast, then went over to wait outside an administrative building with various important local government officials. And waited. This was definitely an African Time (tm) occasion. Folks started to assemble for the parade, trucks jammed with excited people drove up, we chatted with judges and teachers and met the governor.
Somewhere south of 11:30 the parade got underway and for some reason, being associated with the Gazelle Foundation, we got to ride with the head Bururi judge (Zack) in the procession over to the field where the action would be. We were seated several rows directly behind the governor of Bururi, who was clearly the most important official around.
I wish I had the bandwidth to upload some photos, but all we've got at the moment is a painfully slow EDGE data pipe on a few cellphones. It was quite a show! The drum squad, dancers, the police and army, and almost endless procession of folks from every local school, hospital, company, and organization. All sorts of performances and gymnastics were put on in front of the grandstands, and all manner of costumes and props waltzed by us.
Some seemed to emphasize the unity of the Burundi people (maybe of the tribes). One troop of girls chanted on and on about the evil Muzungus - I think Bosco said they were referring to the Belgians.
Then speeches. Long, long, African-style speeches. Sadly, not knowing Kurundi, we had no idea what they were talking about most of the time. Except when Jean Bosco told us to stand up, because the governor was trying to recognize us for the Gazelle Foundation's work.
Then back to the hotel for the governor's reception/lunch (at 4pm! I was so hungry). I felt like an imposter sitting in there with the governor and all these high ranking government and military officials. (Especially in my jeans and tennis shoes, since my suit was in my lost luggage - now found and waiting at the Buj airport.)
Quite a long day, but it was really cool event to see and participate in.
Oh, and while hitting the local mini-mart for some extra water with Jean Bosco, we ran into Gilbert's sister, Francine, and several of her friends from Songa - in town for the celebration. They were hilarious! We couldn't understand what they were talking about, but they were having such a good time and were so glad to see us. Francine laughs just like our coach, Gilbert, spontaneous and unrestrained.
Today it's on to Songa, and then Gitega to drop off Terry and Vasil.
Word was that the parade would start to assemble by 9AM. So we got in an early morning run (which was fun given the crazy hills and 6300 ft elevation), cold shower, and breakfast, then went over to wait outside an administrative building with various important local government officials. And waited. This was definitely an African Time (tm) occasion. Folks started to assemble for the parade, trucks jammed with excited people drove up, we chatted with judges and teachers and met the governor.
Somewhere south of 11:30 the parade got underway and for some reason, being associated with the Gazelle Foundation, we got to ride with the head Bururi judge (Zack) in the procession over to the field where the action would be. We were seated several rows directly behind the governor of Bururi, who was clearly the most important official around.
I wish I had the bandwidth to upload some photos, but all we've got at the moment is a painfully slow EDGE data pipe on a few cellphones. It was quite a show! The drum squad, dancers, the police and army, and almost endless procession of folks from every local school, hospital, company, and organization. All sorts of performances and gymnastics were put on in front of the grandstands, and all manner of costumes and props waltzed by us.
Some seemed to emphasize the unity of the Burundi people (maybe of the tribes). One troop of girls chanted on and on about the evil Muzungus - I think Bosco said they were referring to the Belgians.
Then speeches. Long, long, African-style speeches. Sadly, not knowing Kurundi, we had no idea what they were talking about most of the time. Except when Jean Bosco told us to stand up, because the governor was trying to recognize us for the Gazelle Foundation's work.
Then back to the hotel for the governor's reception/lunch (at 4pm! I was so hungry). I felt like an imposter sitting in there with the governor and all these high ranking government and military officials. (Especially in my jeans and tennis shoes, since my suit was in my lost luggage - now found and waiting at the Buj airport.)
Quite a long day, but it was really cool event to see and participate in.
Oh, and while hitting the local mini-mart for some extra water with Jean Bosco, we ran into Gilbert's sister, Francine, and several of her friends from Songa - in town for the celebration. They were hilarious! We couldn't understand what they were talking about, but they were having such a good time and were so glad to see us. Francine laughs just like our coach, Gilbert, spontaneous and unrestrained.
Today it's on to Songa, and then Gitega to drop off Terry and Vasil.
Sunday, July 1, 2012
Back in Burundi!
We're back in Burundi again! Michael, Terry, Vasil, and myself arrived yesterday after over two days and five legs of travel. It's a long trip! The longest leg is just under 13 hours, from Washington Dulles to Addis Ababa. After two days of little/no sleep, it was great to sleep in this morning.
We spent the night in Bujumbura at a house we're renting last night, and we'll be participating in Independence Day activities out in Songa tomorrow. Hopefully look at the latest water project. After that, it's on to Gitega.
Michael and I have spent the morning grappling with our obstinate Internet options. There's a hotel/restaurant next door (Hotel de la Palmeraie) to the Bujumbura rental we're using to catch up on email. But we both have various Leo and Econet cellular data cards that we've been swapping around between phones and USB adapters so that we have internet available at the rental house here, and the rental in Gitega. No luck so far, but we haven't given up.
It was cool to shop at an open-air market last evening, we picked up some of those awesome little Burundi bananas, huge avocados and mangos, and other tidbits. Did the dollar/Burundi franc money swap. (Felt like we were in a bookie's little office!) A little stack of American bills turns into this huge stack of BIF 10,000 bills due to the exchange rate, inflation, and so forth. Luckily we're all seasoned travelers now and knew to bring crisp clean 2006 or newer US bills with us.
Bosco and several other folks met us at the airport last night. Everyone's luggage arrived safely, except for mine. Oops. Filing forms in the open-air Bujumbura airport with not a computer in sight was an experience. Luckily, Gilbert's friend Aloyse appeared and helped me negotiate with the officials. Maybe they'll find it soon? I have about two days clothes etc. in my gym bag so it could be worse.
It's great to be back!
We spent the night in Bujumbura at a house we're renting last night, and we'll be participating in Independence Day activities out in Songa tomorrow. Hopefully look at the latest water project. After that, it's on to Gitega.
Michael and I have spent the morning grappling with our obstinate Internet options. There's a hotel/restaurant next door (Hotel de la Palmeraie) to the Bujumbura rental we're using to catch up on email. But we both have various Leo and Econet cellular data cards that we've been swapping around between phones and USB adapters so that we have internet available at the rental house here, and the rental in Gitega. No luck so far, but we haven't given up.
It was cool to shop at an open-air market last evening, we picked up some of those awesome little Burundi bananas, huge avocados and mangos, and other tidbits. Did the dollar/Burundi franc money swap. (Felt like we were in a bookie's little office!) A little stack of American bills turns into this huge stack of BIF 10,000 bills due to the exchange rate, inflation, and so forth. Luckily we're all seasoned travelers now and knew to bring crisp clean 2006 or newer US bills with us.
Bosco and several other folks met us at the airport last night. Everyone's luggage arrived safely, except for mine. Oops. Filing forms in the open-air Bujumbura airport with not a computer in sight was an experience. Luckily, Gilbert's friend Aloyse appeared and helped me negotiate with the officials. Maybe they'll find it soon? I have about two days clothes etc. in my gym bag so it could be worse.
It's great to be back!
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